Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Progressing on the Queen's American Ranger Jacket: Lining, Buttons, Hooks and Eyes

A finished jacket...you're almost there

Sew in your button stand and interfacing prior to working buttonholes or sewing the lining.

Once you have finished the exterior of the coat, work the buttonholes on chest prior to sewing on the liner.  Be sure to have sewn on a button stand on the interior of the chest panels, prior to working the buttonholes.

Now pin the lining to your jacket.  The bays is a very loose weave, so you will need to fix your pins very close together.  Sew the lining to the collar using a whipstitch.  The body should be sewn using a straight stitch (at least 6-8 stitches per inch and a 1/2 in seam allowance).  Pull the sleeves through and fold the false cuff in on the lining.  Sew using a 1/2 in seam allowance and straight stitch along the slash, whip stitch along the bottom of the cuff.

For the chest button holes, now work the button holes on the interior (whip stitching the lining to the buttonhole on the interior.  Once you have it tacked down, cut the lining open.

Sew the lining to the buttonholes on the chest panels

Cut the lining only after you have completely sewn it to the buttonhole.
Mark your button placement on the opposite side and make your holes with your awl, just like you did for the epaulettes.

Gently force the fibers apart where you marked your button placements.
Depending on the fabric thickness, you make have to pull the shank through after
threading the tape through to the exterior of the chest panel.

Push the button shanks through and sew the linen tape down along the chest panel buttons.

Detail of chest buttons (interior)

Do the same for the two buttons on the cuffs as well.  There are no button holes on the cuffs.  These are closed using your hooks and eyes.

Hooks on the button side, eyes opposite.

Fix the hooks and eyes right behind your buttons on the cuffs...and you're done!

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